Is Ensenada and Valle de Guadalupe Open? Travel Safety Updates:

Update: Saturday 8/13/2022

Ensenada Businesses Closed due to Insecurity

For precaution, the city of Ensenada is essentially closed. Last night one of the cartels announced it would create violence on the streets of Tijuana, Mexicali, and Ensenada until Sunday afternoon.

https://ensenada.net/noticias/nota.php?id=68913

A few vehicles were burnt and the city has announced a stay-at-home recommendation. Most businesses were closed down at 10 pm Friday night.

The streets are quiet today. For precaution, I have closed my businesses Ensenada Massage, Valle Mobile Spa, and Ensenada Excursions, are closed.

Most likely cruise excursions and massages will be canceled tomorrow Sunday as well.

It’s hard to know what is exactly true and what level of danger there is, but I prefer to act with caution. Although narco activity doesn’t usually direct me as an ex-pat business owner, the cartels are powerful, and when there is a power imbalance between cartels, or in negotiation with the government, risk level changes.

05/13/2022

The state department issued a travel warning for Mexico and included state of Baja, not Ensenada or Valle de Guadalupe

As you know, the State Department issued a travel alert to reconsider travel to Baja and for Mexicali Valley in Baja Norte government employees are restricted. You can see details below, and Ensenada, is not included in the restrictions.

https://travel.state.gov/content/travel/en/traveladvisories/traveladvisories/mexico-travel-advisory.html

At the same time, last weekend local Ensenada paper announced local violent crime is down 53% this year from January to June.  

So, what does this mean for your travel to Baja?

Honestly, I don’t think this kind of information is that helpful guidance on traveling.    Newspaper local data are questionable and government reports accurate, but often months old and the geographic area gets lost.

This last year I have seen no change in safety as an Expat living and working here.  I continue to live peacefully, do my work, pay taxes, and hang out with my dogs on the beach. Since I am not involved in any illicit activity, those players don’t bother me, or other tourists. My biggest travel problem this year has been my car overheating due to a faulty radiator fan switch.

I personally never feel at risk here in for crimes against my body, and I accept the physical things of value may magically disappear if I don’t pay attention. . . . that seems to be the same most places in the world. 

The state department issued a travel advisor for Baja California

Updated 8/10/21:

Are Ensenada beaches Open?

No, currently closed due to a black water spill. They should be open again in two months until the next test. Playa Hermosa is also closed because of construction on new infrastructure.

Southbound border traffic continues without restrictions for crossing or covid testing.

Ensenada continues to experience an upsurge in violence related to drug trafficking. However, this upsurge is from almost no violence two years ago, and I have not it seen affect tourism, local ex-pat life, or Valle de Guadalupe. Ensenada, this does not seem to touch those not involved in bad stuff.

Baja remains in Covid Semafaro Amarillo, Yellow light. See current government updates here:

Update: 7/24/21: Vendimia is still being held. Returning from my birthday trip to Sedona, AZ, I see that there are more masks and precautions in Ensenada compared to Sedona.

Update: 6/24/21: The vaccine has been rolled out for the age groups down to 20s now. The free, voluntary offering was available beginning with the older population and has now reached the 20’s. Most workers are now vaccinated. Our Spa team is 100% vaccinated. I haven’t seen statistics on what percent of locals received, but I would expect 50-70% are now vaccinated.

Safety protocols such as limited numbers of groups at tour sites, wine sites are still in place.

Update: 5/24/2021: The Valle de Guadalupe restaurants and hotels have fully reopened with new restrictions. Facemasks, temperature checks, and hand gel the normal indoors, and most places now have indoor and outdoor seating for restaurants.

There continue to be no road travel restrictions entering Mexico or returning to the US at San Ysidro. Air travel returning to the US from Mexico requires a test.

In Ensenada, many (including our team) at Ensenada Massage - Valle Mobile Spa) are gaining access to the vaccine. Although behind the US in availability, it has happened.

There are still new covid cases and hospitals have adjusted to handle them. Most businesses

Beaches are filling up on the weekend. Many empty business offices in downtown Ensenada, so the economic impact remains evident. The cruise ships haven’t returned yet - maybe September? The main city beach, Playa Hermosa is partly closed for construction. However, everyone still accesses it from the sides that are not under construction. The biggest city park is under reconstruction/ closure as well. However, the harbor Malecon, huge flag area, and Riviera are all open with controlled entrances for temperature checks.

Please come visit us! In our Ensenada Spa, a facial package with our Mobile Spa Team, or a Personalized covid - safe wine tour with our Tours team.

Breathe Deeply and Travel Safe, Jesse A

I live and travel here, so ask me any safety or questions or updates you see. I’ll add them here.

Click Here to whatsapp Jesse 6461285160

I was on an epic 4-week road trip with my dogs in Baja Sur, so missed a few months of updates here.

Overall, Baja Sur seems a bit more consistent in its enforcement of masks and signs. However, since so much of life is outside, it didn’t seem to matter. Many people wear masks on the sidewalk.

The beaches were closed for Semana Santa but reopened when I returned three weeks later. On the ground, I noticed La Paz is still closing its Malecon in the evening. Flights in and out of Cabo to the US require a covid check before leaving. Other than masks indoors and temperature check and gel at the doors, I saw no reportable covid related restrictions in Mulege, Todos Santos, Los Barilles, Cabo Pulmo, San Ignacio, Loreto, or Bahia Asuncion.

The military and agriculture checkpoints don’t check health issues.

Update 2/24/2021

Despite newly announced land border controls entering into Mexico, I saw no difference in the border crossing northbound and again southbound the weeks of February 20.

Update: 1/31/2021:

Are there restrictions to entering Baja Mexico by Land?

Until this last week, there were no restrictions on driving southbound that I had heard announced or witnessed. Now there has been an announcement of new requirements, that may or may not be enforced: TalkBaja Source

• obligatory use of face masks temperature

• symptom screening

• maximum of two persons per vehicle

• verification that purpose of travel is considered essential See US Consulate

Yes, Ensenada and the Valle de Guadalupe are open for travel. There are no health checkpoints nor travel requirements for negative test results to enter the Valle de Guadalupe or Baja Norte if you are already in Mexico. Los Cabos now requires some testing for air travel. Official statistics reflect high rates of covid, and hospitals are full in Ensenada. Rates are lower than in Tijuana and near the border.

Keep in mind most of the cases are concentrated in Tijuana and Mexicali. Ensenada County has about 1/3 of the cases compared to Tijuana, so most of these cases would not be directly relevant to visitors to Valle de Guadalupe.

Baja seems to have a more relaxed attitude than I feel in San Diego on my visits north of the border. There is life in the streets and, although modified, people are working and living.

Despite the circumstances, restaurants and hotels have adapted. Tourism is open and there are Things to do in Valle de Guadalupe Beyond Wine and Food, and around Ensenada. Click for my recommendations. You can actually eat in a restaurant. The Baja and Valle de Guadalupe are welcoming travelers from Southern California with few other travel options, and Mexican national tourists from mainland Mexico.

Most spas are shut down in Ensenada and Valle de Guadalupe, according to city requests. We are offering more mobile massage, a few massage appointments in our spa, and private tours for wine, horseback, and ATV.

According to a recent NPR article Title We Feel Safe, “Mexico has the fourth-highest death total from COVID-19 in the world and is experiencing a surge in infections and hospitalizations in the capital and its surrounding suburbs. Despite that and fast-rising case numbers in other countries like the United States, Mexico doesn't require travelers to show proof of a negative coronavirus test or to quarantine upon arrival.”

Official government news Facebook page here . BC Health Secretary with official Cases for Mexico here.

Baja Norte is in red light of the stoplight system.

Update: 12/10/2020: Despite red light, Still no travel restrictions entering by car. Restaurants are open with seating restrictions. Beer is now more available.

Beaches are open with 100’s of people using them each day.

Update 9/4/2020: Beaches are open in practice. I have been able to surf and swim this week without being asked to leave. At least fifty people walk and exercise every morning on Playa Hermosa.

No health checkpoints are in place. Restaurants and hotels have that survived have reopened with new procedures, including the rigorous Clean and Safe Certification that our spa follows and is used here, in Valle de Guadalupe and Ensenada by the tourism board.

The streets are quite busy on the weekends. I haven’t heard of large improvements or worsening in health statistics, which I don’t think are reliable given all the uncertainty of covid and the institutions here.

Update 8/6: Are the beaches in Ensenada Open? Yes, the beaches in Ensenada are now open! See my beach recommendations details here.

The Valle de Guadalupe is now open as well, I would say 1/2 open. The roads are open, and restaurants and hotels are accepting clients. All have made investments and changes for COVID, making your visit as safe as possible. Many things are still closed, so activities are a bit limited. I am developing my list of recommended activities in Valle de Guadalupe and around Ensenada here for what is open, and activities beyond wine and food, and mobile massage.

Update 8/1: Beaches are now open until 9am. This applies mostly to city beaches. Private and beaches out of town are open or differ on a case by case basis.

Update 7/20: Entering Mexico at San Ysidro is still no problem. Returning to US is no problem for citizens.

Entering Ensenada, there is no longer a health check to stop tourists and check the temperature or ask for a justification for your visit. Several micro-breweries reopened last week. About half the restaurants are open, mostly with outdoor seating. There is normal activity in the streets as locals are living daily life. Everyone is required to wear a mask in buildings, although this seems to me only enforced for the workers and depends on the place.

Businesses like my spa have adopted necessary safety measures and are offering modified service - outdoor seating for restaurants, sending food and massage to your door, and modifying indoor activities to make it as safe as possible. Many hotels and our spa have Clean and Safe certification and have invested in equipment and training to reopen.

Check official links for data on reported cases, below.

City beaches are still closed with lifeguards patrolling 8 am-7:30 pm. Check out my list of Best Ensenada beaches and access points.

Occasionally the cops drive down a busy road and use a megaphone to announce that the beach or park is closed.

The Valle de Guadalupe is partly open with select places opening. See here my updated activities of things to do in Valle de Guadalupe,

Update 7/10: The health stop or ‘Filtro’ entering Ensenada and Valle de Guadalupe is reimposed on 7/4.

Update 7/2/2020: Beaches are still closed. City beaches are monitored by lifeguards 8am to 7:30pm, and you will be asked to leave. Locals walk their dogs and exercise, and surf before 8am or after 7:30pm. As alternative, go to a beach further from city center, such as near Bufadora.

Update 6/20/2020: The health checkpoint in Sauzal is now allowing anyone without a high temperature to pass to Ensenada or Valle de Guadalupe. Previously documents or a good verbal argument were required to justify your entry. Now, as long as you pass the temperature radar gun test, you are welcome. Actually, they waived me through last week without temperature check or conversation, so enforcement is spotty.

Road travel is now open and there is no risk of being turned back!

Crossing the border into Mexico is unchanged. Crossing back into the US has not been a problem for me, a US citizen with Sentri pass. Despite what’s in the news, I have not heard of any US citizen having trouble crossing back into the US.

Reserve now with 10% discount, and reschedule easily online as your travel plans change. Use code TRAVELSAFE for discount. We are offering select appointments in the studio and open-air massage through our mobile service Valle Mobile Massage. The science points to stagnant air as a main risk factor, so we have maximized airflow in addition to many other changes to ensure your safety and ours.

Official data can be found here for Baja COVID cases. However, official data are highly suspect.

Update 6/1/2020

As of June 1, many restrictions were supposedly lifted across Mexico, including the health checkpoint entering the city. I have not seen this confirmed yet on the ground.

Baja California remains with the same recommendations for social distancing. A few restaurants with outdoor seating are open. Beaches still closed. Non-essential mostly still closed. Other parts of Mexico are a yellow or green light on the government categorization, Baja California remains a red light.

I have yet to meet anyone locally who was officially diagnosed with COVID or serious COVID symptoms. Local government also recognizes that many were ill with similar flu in February and speculate Ensenada may have some kind of resistance at this point.

Personally, I was ill for 5 days in February, with one night of fever, and sensitive throat lymph glands. Well before any cruise ships stopped coming or lockdown. I recovered on my own without hospitalization or diagnosis (tests were not available).

During May, there is a health checkpoint coming into Ensenada and each car is checked for temperature and asked their business. Some tourists have been turned away and residents are asked for a residential bill such as water/electricity to demonstrate they live here. I haven’t heard of residents being turned away for not having the document.

Waits are between 10-120 minutes for the checkpoint. There is no way to avoid it in the last few weeks of May.

As of 4/16 there are only 5 confirmed cases in Ensenada. Official data here.

Mexicali and Tijuana have more than 500 confirmed cases and seems to be quite bad. Unlikely that these exact numbers are accurate, but clearly it is on the rise at the border and arriving in Ensenada. The border is closed to non-essential travel to non-US citizens. In practice, it’s not clear what that means for US citizens.

Driving into Ensenada, there were medical checkpoints as of 3/28.

Curfew was imposed 2/29, but I am not sure how that will be enforced.

Although there are a few cars on the street, social distancing, masks, are the norm. I would say about 70% of businesses are closed or substanially reduced.

3/29

Daily life in Ensenada seems to be life as normal, but slower.  Eventually, Coronavirus (Covid-19) will arrive and disrupt the medical system as well as other factors of life here. The situation is changing daily with respect to travel restrictions. 

Please take care of the science-backed ideas to reduce infection rates, and fortify your immune system to handle any infection. 

We believe in the power of science for health, and embrace a holistic biopsychosocial model of wellness that incorporates the thought process and sees wellness as more than solely mechanical or chemical.  The mental stress of the situation is an important part of your wellness.  

Finding relaxation, social support, and fun are helpful for sense of well being,

How safe is Ensenada, Mexico?

updated March 13 2020

Wondering if travel to Ensenada is safe? It’s a common question from travelers Airbnb couples, and visitors to Valle de Guadalupe.  There are no official travel warnings or restrictions from US State Department for Ensenada, only other parts of Mexico, 1,400 miles away.

Please don’t avoid Ensenada due to bad news in Michoacan. That would be like saying, I won’t go to Vegas because of riots in Detroit . . . .

Unofficially, as an ex-pat spa owner here for 9 years, this is my two pesos worth of advice:  For the traveler, Ensenada is safe.

There has been a rash of violent killings in Ensenada and Tijuana in the last three months, primarily in night and mostly away from the city center. The city center remains very safe, with some risks in the ungated communities further from the city center. This change does not affect daytime tourism or wine valley tourism. As an ex-pat male, I never feel my body is unsafe here. Since it is a city, leaving things out is an invitation for theft.

Officially, recent US Department Warning Here does not mention Baja in ‘Reconsider Trave'l’, only in ‘Increased Caution’.

“There are no additional restrictions on travel for U.S. government employees in Baja California, which includes tourist areas in: Ensenada, Rosarito, and Tijuana”

More Broadly, if you are looking for evidence of why Mexico as a country is safe, consider that foreign residents are not leaving Ensenada nor Mexico overall, and record numbers of tourists arrive each year.

Tourism is an important industry here in Ensenada, so local police keep a close eye on downtown Ensenada, La Primera, Malecon for security and food safety as well. You will see a 24/7 security guy roaming the Malecon (mostly telling me not to ride my bike) and a cop car parked in front of Parque de Tres Cabezas. Also, the local police force is using drones for emergency crime response and has decreased crime 10%.

You can see in this updated map, the homicide crime rate in Ensenada is lowest in Baja.

Your body is safe in Ensenada.  Ensenada crime rates are lower than Tijuana, and Los Angeles.  Nobody will mug or kidnap you, or something horrible such as steal a kidney.  My Dad worried about his since the violence and kidnapping news filtered through to him 15 years ago. Baja today is much much different. These things are very, very rare around Ensenada, and do not affect travelers when they do occur. Locals feel safe generally as well and the wealthy I have observed do not travel with bodyguards. Keep in mind, historically Ensenada has been considered a safe haven for the crime cartels and other shadow businesses.  Any cartel violence was not enforced here. This infographic on crime shows Ensenada with very few reported murders.

You can see while there is serious violence in Mexico, this is a geographically huge country just like the US, and the dirty business in Sinaloa is so far away does not affect Baja.

Your property is pretty safe in Ensenada

Generally I don’t hear stories of purse snatching, phone grabbing, or carjacking.  Ensenada is a city, so property disappears if you leave it unattended and in open. This is mostly relevant for living here. You can see visitor report feeling safe. This survey reports low to moderate perceptions of crime and high levels of safety.

Avoid Travel Stress: Book Private Tour

Valle de Guadalupe Safety

I am in the Wine Valley often for mobile massage, and see the biggest troubles there are road conditions and theft. In the rainy season, unpaved roads have huge puddles and ruts. Don’t get stuck and ruin a great weekend. Low rise vehicles are not so great. Having said that, the main roads in Valle are paved.

Theft is mostly an issue for those that live there since it is so spacious, and empty during week/off season. You might notice dogs everywhere. Dogs are often used as a security device, doing their job to bark . . . .

Safe Travel for Ensenada: Exercise same caution any city in the US:  

• Don’t leave bags unlocked or sitting around.

• Lock your bike up, valuable car or off road vehicle; the more valuable the stuff, the bigger the target.

• Understand that late night drinking leaves you vulnerable

• Feel free to ignore random people that talk to you, mostly to sell you stuff . . .

• Bigger bills are hard to make change often. Not a security threat, but an inconvenience.

• Prepare Girl scout: Check if you will have cell coverage, have insurance coverage, any emergency info you might need. Save walking map down below here:

Within walking distance of the curiseport and downtown area is cleaner and well guarded.  The Malecon has security 24/7 (no bikes or homeless or soliciting), the police station is 1 block off La Primera, and regular patrols.  As you get away from La Primera in Ensenada Centro, it does get dustier and more full of potholes, (especially compared to SoCal Catalina Island for you Carnival cruisers).  We don’t have street sweeper machines and for the potholes. . . local government what can you say? Please know that this is just daily life for us. Mostly people working, buying shoes, taking kids to school, going to the dentist, working to pay rent.

Biggest Travel Risk

• As a traveler or tourist, the biggest risk is a crummy travel experience,

• substandard lodging when you go for something cheap,

• uncomforatable vendors price negotiations on La Primera street,

• long driving hours and stress,

• transportation stress of bad roads and being left by Uber.

Ensenada has huge potholes and Uber doesn’t arrive to many places. So don’t get stranded at blowhole or wine valley or las canadas. I suggest booking a private driver tour like Arturo at Ensenada Excursions and Tours.

Border wait times are a huge variable. Unless you have Sentri or Medical pass, the crossing back into the US may be the worst part of your Ensenada weekend.

Crossing into mexico is also backed up on many Friday afternoons.

Security Check points pop up randomly on major toll road. Be aware. There are at least two types of checkpoints. Army guys in fatigues are clearly military and really only interested in guns and drugs. Don’t mess with them. I have had a yerba matte tea spoon confiscated since they didn’t know what it was for. The federales have dark blue/black uniforms and cars. It seems they are primarily looking for drunk driving. Local patrullas in Ensenada are relaxed and not sticklers for minor traffic infractions. I haven’t heard many bad tourist stories from patrullas here in Ensenada, but lots in Tijuana and Rosarito where there is more of a party scene.

On the toll road, keep your toll ticket. Part of paying toll is free service towing (to the next toll booth) and insurance to cover accidents. These ‘Green Angels’ have white and green vehicles. Phone number on back of toll ticket.

Check out:

Things to Do in Ensenada

Things to Do in Valle de Guadalupe Beyond Wine and Food

Best Tacos Near Downtown

Get a Massage and Give a hug!